Pierpaolo Piccioli revealed a superb collection last Friday on the steps of the great staircase in Piazza di Spagna. The collection was a tribute to the tradition of the Roman house and took place on the outskirts of the Parisian haute couture calendar.
Pierpaolo Piccioli never uses any other word but “beauty” in his writing. And beauty was the topic of discussion on Friday evening in Piazza di Spagna, which is the location where the artistic director of Valentino showed his haute couture collection for the winter of 2022. A few days earlier, he greeted us in the Parisian salons of the house, while the little hands of experienced seamstresses from her workshops were giving the dresses in a parade that promised to be masterful in their final needle strokes.
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He continues, “I’ve always believed that beauty conveys a powerful message.” I’m not referring to aesthetic canons or physical injunctions when I say this; rather, I’m speaking about the humanity that can be seen shining through in the variety of bodies, ages, genders, and origins. In these trying times, which can be intolerant at times, especially in Italy, I believe that as a designer I have a social responsibility to the people of this country. Because it is such a great sounding board and because it possesses the ability to convey a message that will be received, fashion must inherently be political. We are all stunning just the way that we are. Some people will consider this to be correct. Nevertheless, it cannot be denied that it is the truth. Pierpaolo Piccioli had gotten into the habit of presenting his collections in Paris. He made an impression last January with haute couture that showcased (already) fifty-five women of various ages, origins, and body types. These women ranged from Kristen McMenamy, who is 57 years old, to Jill Kortleve, who is known as the “size 40 model” that the luxury industry is snapping up. If a message is drilled into someone’s head repeatedly, they will understand it much better. That is the reason why Kristen and Jill were still present in the City of the Eternal on Friday night. Sublime. The first one was a dramatic one, with her wearing a magazine leader’s headpiece and a cloak made of black tulle with white feathers embroidered on it. The second, more regal, was wearing a dress that was draped in velvet and had puffed aubergine faille sleeves. She was also wearing low heels.
During the Valentino winter 2022 couture show, Jill Kortleve, Aalto, and Kristen McMenamy descended the gigantic steps of Piazza di Spagna from left to right. Valentino
On the bewitching voice of the English singer Labrinth (author of the mind-blowing soundtrack of the series Euphoria), 102 beautiful people, both men, and women descended the monumental steps as the light began to fade and began to pace the piazza Mignanelli in the direction of the Valentino palace and its workshops. There were times when the Ponentino, a mild wind that is typical of Rome, blew in the ruffled gazar blouses, the silk-faille skirts, and the train of the coral chiffon dresses that were embroidered with a three-dimensional rose made of organza and tulle. Haute couture that is infused with poetry, femininity that avoids cliches, and a mastery of colors (ranging from the palest shade of white to the most acidic shade of green) that Piccioli has accustomed his audience to seeing from him.
Detail from the Valentino Haute Couture Collection for the Winter of 2022 Valentino
“This collection hits quite close to home for me,” says the tailor as he picks up the garments. Because it speaks of the beginnings of this house and mine, as well as the dialogue that I intended to initiate with the work of Mr. Valentino, I christened it “The Beginning.” It was in Rome, therefore, that Valentino Garavani, who is now 90 years old and started his label there in 1959, got his start in the fashion industry. And the Piazza di Spagna as the backdrop, where, between the years 1986 and 2003, Valentino and other Italian designers (Gianni Versace, Giorgio Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, etc.) paraded Claudia Schiffer, Cindy Crawford, Carla Bruni, Grace Jones, Christy Turlington, and Naomi Campbell at the close of Altaroma, the Italian haute couture week. “These parades were open to the public,” he says. My memory takes me back to when I was one of those kids in the crowd. I wanted to repay Rome for the fashion inspiration and dreamy moments that it had bestowed upon me in the past. However, there was no trace of nostalgia as everyone’s focus shifted toward the future.
“I don’t like to talk a lot about my work. Couture cannot be explained, it is felt. The spectator must perceive its magic without further comment. »
Pierpaolo Piccioli, artistic director of the Valentino house
As a signal, the show opened with a jacket of 3D roses in “Valentino red” taffeta – a “tribute to the fabled Fiesta dress he made in 1959- and closed with a succession of black and white looks evoking Roman mosaics. “Nothing is literal,” says Pierpaolo Piccioli. “Nothing is very literal.” I’ve found that the best way to proceed is to trust my hunches and not bother with elaborate stories. For this collection, I was going for an air of lightness and romance all at the same time. On the other hand, I try to limit how much I talk about my job. The term “couture” cannot be defined; rather, it must be experienced. The onlooker must be able to notice its enchantment on their own without any commentary.
Pierpaolo Piccioli, who was hosting the conclusion of his haute couture presentation for the winter of 2022 in Rome, was flanked by models and seamstresses.