Skin-deep style: the Saint Laurent aesthetic

Saint Laurent. Valerio Mezzanotti/Shutterstock/SIPA

NARRATIVE – During their time at the Trocadéro, the YSL woman stood out from the crowd, the Courrèges procession rekindled the genius of “André,” and the collection from The Row seduced gently.

The inimitable Martha Graham once stated that the human body is a sacred garment. The visuals of her living body, which were like a moving sculpture of suffering, and the tube clothing from her choreographic wailing (1930) continue to be unsettlingly contemporary. On Tuesday evening, on the Saint Laurent podium at the Trocadero, the women who worked for Anthony Vaccarello recalled his words as if a century had not gone since then. The high mass of the French brand is held once more on the plaza of Warsaw, which has been altered without it being visible, in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower. The ancient fountains have been hidden by the raised ground, which has also allowed for the creation of a new, distinctive fountain in the area’s center.

In the enormous room, out in the open air (the thunderstorm-carrying cumulonimbus are miraculously able to avoid the capital), the silhouettes with endless legs are wrapped in jersey sheaths that are more or less transparent, partially covering their heads, and descending to with bare ankles in their stiletto heels. At other times, gorgeous jackets weigh down their shoulders and drag them down…

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